Antique Brooches

Art Nouveau jewelry had its heyday from 1895-1915. The style was popularized by Rene Jules Lalique in France and followed by others in Europe and the United States. Although there are many styles available today, jewelries fashioned in this manner are still sought after by many collectors.

General Characteristics

Jewelry designed in this manner bear some resemblance to the works in the American and British Arts and Crafts Movement as well as the German Jugendstil. The major trademarks of Art Nouveau are the focus on colors and heavy concentration on the shape of the female body.

Several methods are used to carry out this style. They include various types of enameling processes like plique a jour, champleve, cloisonné and basse-taille.

The motifs used by designers were varied. Flowers, vines, pansies, irises and orchids were used extensively. Animals like swans, dragonflies, various types of snakes and peacocks were used. Other jewelries made use of the female silhouette and creatures from various mythologies.

Pioneers

As stated earlier, René Lalique was one of the leaders of this art movement in Paris. The Germans also made contributions, particularly the Wiener Werkstätte and the Darmstadt Artists’ Colony.

Elsewhere in Europe, the Danish designer Georg Jensen created several noteworthy pieces too. In England, Charles Robert Ashbee and Liberty & Co. also made valuable contributions, although their style was more linear than the others.

Unlike other styles, the focus of Art Nouveau jewelry centered on the actual construction of the piece, not just the precious stones.

The Essence of Art Nouveau

This artistic movement was not limited to jewelry; it encompassed painting, architecture and furniture. The focus is on organic shapes and nature. This explains why animals, flowers and plants were often used. At the same time, the art also embraced fantasy creatures and even “real” objects and shapes were often expressed in abstract fashions.

Although the style is original, it drew inspiration from various sources. These include Rococo, Symbolist and some elements of the High Victorian style.

Due to the diverse sources, jewelry, architecture and painting all under this style differ in appearance. The uniqueness can be seen not just in jewelry but also in artistic works. Among its leading proponents in the field of the arts were Aubrey Beardsley, Alphonse Mucha and Gustav Klim.

Difference from Art Deco and Arts & Crafts

As stated, Art Nouveau favors the organic shapes and the female form. Art Deco by contrast, puts more emphasis on geometric shapes and striking color contrasts. Elements of At Deco jewelry were inspired by cultures like the Mayans, Japanese, Egyptian and African.

Elements of Cubism were included as well. The Arts and Crafts on the other hand, laid emphasis on simplicity. The Arts & Craft style became popular from 1894-1923. The Art Deco style flourished from 1920-1935.

Since it emerged in the late 19th century, Art Nouveau jewelry has remained popular and its influence can still be seen today. The name itself means new art, and it is appropriate as there have been numerous incarnations and styles continuously emerging from it.

No related articles.